Thursday, January 29, 2015

HSM 1: Late Elizabethan Bum Roll

I decided to start with the Sew Historical Monthly challenge by the Dreamstress. And barely making it into the month by the skin of my teeth.

i can say I did finish over a week ago but didn't get pictures until recently.

Anyway, the first challenge was foundations and I made an Elizabethan bum roll.

I've used fathingales and added in 18th century bummrolls for adjusting the silhouette for ren costuming but I've never ventured late period enough for a bumroll (or wheel farthingale for that matter) but I saw a Lucy Worsley special on royal dress and in getting dressed as QE1 they used a very large bumroll. In addition there is a 16th century image of women trying on bums in a shop that have similar dimensions. It sounded like a plan and did turn out quite fun and hopefully functional.

Image from the 1590s. I based the shape of my roll on the ones on the floors more specifically the front one. It seems so be oval shaped with slightly more padding on the back hip to bum areas.

Very silly flat picture. It is mildly lumpy but it doesn't show underneath a petticoat.

Back view. My dummy has a smaller hip than i do. It still stays up on her but the end meet and overlap in the front a touch.

With a skirt over it. I don't have anything made for this period yet so I just tossed a petticoat over it to try.

It gives more of a pannier look on the dummy because she has the absolute absence of a rear end. On a normal human it appears more rounded.


The Challenge: 1 Foundations
Fabric: Scrap of black taffeta (outer fabric), linen (lining) , stuffed with a mix of scraps and fiber fill
Pattern: none
Year:  late 16th century
Notions: ribbon tape, fiber fill
How historically accurate is it? Shape-wise fairly, I doubt things were stuffed with scraps and some of the scraps I used are synthetic.
Hours to complete: 1.5
First worn: Not yet
Total cost: all stash, everything except the fiber fill was old bits and bobs from previous projects. 
Woohoo I finished my first challenge! Now to start on Febuary